Approaching Starlite from India Street,
picture an unassuming, understated desert oasis with a soft stucco façade,
accentuated by an array of cacti and a vertical beamed fascia which reveals the
glowing name and theme of this Mission Hills’ hotspot. But enter the hexagonally shaped portal to
another dimension, far from the surrounding body shops and the nearby noise of
the interstate and airport. A huge glass
door, encased in wood opens, and takes your breath away. The dimly lit interior is an architectural
dream filled with life.
Head to the rear of the lounge through
the inconspicuous back door which leads to yet another dimension: an open-air
patio whose energy inflates you; festive, tropical, and relaxed – featuring
another bar, and several tables filled with imbibing, laughter, and comfort
food.
We then commenced indulging in the
cuisine created by Starlite’s young and talented new head chef, Kathleen
Wise. Her menu changes frequently
because the restaurant is devoted to using local ingredients, naturally raised
and organic whenever possible, so the items change with the seasons.
To start we sampled the olives & nuts
appetizer ($6), showcasing an assortment of marinated olives and salted marcona
almonds. This was followed by the mixed
fry ($12): a substantial serving of tempura fried onion rings, mushrooms,
asparagus, zucchini, and string beans, as well as local pepper jack cheese,
served with a vat of ranch dressing, which we agreed overwhelmed the rustic
flavors of the veggies. I’d have
preferred a small assortment of milder, less overwhelming dips or sauces. That being said, let me emphasize that the
tempura fried pepper jack cheese will forever be held close to my heart. Abandon all notions of a mozzarella stick, as
you bite into this smooth and flavorful oozing creamy cheese stick/block; no
stringiness, just pure melted goodness, a serious highlight.
We had to try Starlite’s most popular
appetizer, the sausage board ($13) presented with crostinis, two types of
artisan salami, mustard, an assortment of pickled treats like cucumbers and
golden raisins (a new favorite phenomenon), and the highlight of the plate,
Chef Kathleen’s handcrafted pork sausage - moist and flavor-filled with sage
and fresh herbs.
Next came our undisputed favorite, a
special of the evening (and hopefully a staple going forward): creamy pork stew
($12). This soup resulted from a
beautiful mistake when the spicy pardon peppers overwhelmed Chef Kathleen’s
stock, leading her to cut the spice with heavy cream, potatoes, sweet
tomatillos, and slow-cooked Van de Rose pork, accented by fresh lime and
cilantro. The result was a layered,
creamy, delicious citrus flavor, almost reminiscent of a traditional spicy Thai
soup, but with the welcomed addition of tender bites of pork.
My momentary disappointment was quickly
reined in by Crispy Skin Mary’s Chicken ($20), whose name does not deceive: the
crispy skin boasted exciting spice and even better texture. Beneath this cloak
of deliciousness was moist and tender chicken -- I just wish the skin’s intense
flavor permeated the meat to the bone.
The protein was accompanied by homespun cavatelli, surprisingly light
pillows of creamy ricotta intermixed with buttery slices of local zucchini, and
doused in herbed chicken jus, which again, did not carry with it the flavors of
the skin which would really elevate this dish’s glory.
Whether you’re in the mood for a
quintessential craft cocktail, an array of diverse and creative appetizers, a
romantic meal, a dinner party, or a DJ’d Sunday brunch, Starlite has it all, in
an ambiance unmatched and unmistakably unique.
Starlite is a 21 and over establishment.
STARLITE
3175 India Street, Mission Hills
(619) 358-9766
(619) 358-9766
Hours:
Sun 10:30am–2pm, 5pm–2am
Mon-Sat 5pm–2am
Food served until 12am daily
